Rediscovering Tom Ford - Fall 2013

 

 

 

Never in my 20 something years of fashion euphoria, has a collection left me feeling utterly drained and in need of a hug. Ford's eponymous line had been shown through small venues since his well publicized return in 2010. Finally returning to the global spotlight, a staged runway was only fitting to solidify his return. I anxiously waited to view his offerings with a renewed fervor I hadn't experienced in years, only to be utterly confused by what I was seeing. I was hot, I was cold, I was in need of a time-out. The collection - which partially shied away from Ford's in your face, take me now sexuality - could only be diagnosed as having multiple personalities. 

My biggest problem was separating clashing styles to hone in on beautifully designed pieces. Pulled apart and styled with its retrospective mate, the collection is strong. Nothing we haven't seen before, but still worth owning (for free would be ideal). And why not, who wouldn't want to own a piece of clothing that says, "I own my own sexuality" - or at least Tom Ford tells me I do. Walking the runway, models were clad in lace, floral, starburst, geometric and animal prints. Paying special attention to the new hybrid animal prints I've aptly named leopard-bear-giraffe, cheetah-cow-zebra and my personal favorite the bipolar bovine. 

If you study hard, the styling appears to be a free-for-all. As if all of the clothes were apparently tossed into one room and the models were let loose with an only the strongest survive mentality. Hence the raccoon eyes and somber expressions. As the battled roared on, models emerged in geometric/floral, lace/animal, animal/animal/lace, geometric/lace/lace and so on and so forth. Obviously the strongest - and clear winners - sashayed down the runway last with their starburst and lace dresses of victory. The clear and apparent thoughts swimming in my mind were the similarities I've seen from other designers. Pucci-esque dresses, Jimmy Choo like zebra sandals, Miu Miu starburts and Givenchy geometrics only to be faced with the realization that Tom Ford had perfected and originated many of these very designs during his stints at Gucci and YSL. Fashion, how you dazzle me and give me whiplash with your circles. This of course leaves me questioning if Mr. Ford is indeed the last to leave the party? Or has the party never stopped?

-K.M

Falling Out Of Love With (Y)SL

Am I the only one not entranced by Hedi Slimane's offerings at Saint Laurent? Setting aside the obvious guilt that has plagued me since dropping the 'Yves' from my repertoire, I have not been dazzled by Slimane's ability to take SL to an entirely new level of pretension. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with clothing being pretentious. People using clothing as anything other than utilitarian objects, is standard practice. Be pretentious, immerse yourself into stronger, sexier and uber confident beings from the flick of a dress. But do so under anything but the guise of a long standing French fashion house who's designs are best reserved for women who shower more than once a month. Harsh maybe, but Slimane has managed to take an iconic house and turn it into a grunged, heroine addled, rocker chic brand in less than a year. Splotchy makeup, biker boots and sliced leather leggings, does not a YSL woman make. Lets not leave out the leather front zip skirts, plaid flannel (yes, flannel) shirts, and the arbitrary ascot for good measure.

Oh Stefano Pilati how I miss you and your ability to design fully dressed, confident, sexy women who obviously say no to drugs. After showing his final collection from YSL just a year ago, I have grown to miss his understated yet subtly whimsical designs. Who knows, I never count any designer out. Hedi Slimane's next collection may completely blow me away or even if he designs true to himself under his own name, that's perfectly applaudable. Its just when it comes to design houses that I know and love changing so drastically I get disillusioned. With all the designer buzz and succeeding name change that had YSL revamping their entire brand, my hopes were so unbelievable high, leaving me with a queasy feeling in my stomach from the subsequent fall. So now I look to Resort 2014, in hopes that fishnet tights and simulated Dr. Martens aren't on the menu. 

-K.M

Givenchy Fall 2013

 

 

 

 

I have always had a love-hate relationship with Givenchy. I love every collections and hate that I have to wait 3 months before I can view the next. Riccardo Tisci has an innate ability to enthrall you into this world of sumptuous characters, who possess these rich undercurrents. As I watched each look take stage, I immediately wanted to know these women, to uncover their secrets - to inevitably be one of them. 

This story, certainly more fanciful than others, still had that unspoken secret kept. Although after careful consideration I feel as though I've weeded out Tisci's full meaning behind the collection. This showing puts me in the mindset of Givenchy in a Disney meadow - Bambi to be precise. Obvious conclusion, I know. With his presence on a few sweatshirts, he seems to flaunt his staying power after making his second reemergence since being used in Stella McCartney's campaigns. I found myself tracing the story through the lines and progression of the collection. Being in the meadow with an array of biker jackets, floral prints and talon heels - a clear representation of hooves. The hunter is of course symbolized in the plaid prints with striking red hair hues. Transcending into morbidly ironic Thumper-esque furs and paisley fire prints, the story shifts a bit with darkness. Finally finishing with the reemerging beauty of the forest in the form of sheer skirts with floral embellishments and dark jumpers. Beautifully capturing regrowth in a somewhat dark and haunted but mesmerizing way. Its life, its loves, it is the pursuit of. Tisci never fails to dazzle me with the things he never says. Beautiful collection.

-Kelly McIntosh

Olympia Le Tan & Spike Jonze - Mourir Auprès De Toi

I am completely smitten with this video.

Charlotte Olympia Spring 2013

source shoerazzi

All of a sudden I have an urge to wear 60's poodle skirts and cardigans. No less the sign of a good collection to make me a bit nostalgic of an era I never experience. That's some powerful magic Ms. Dellal weaves.

CFDA - Fashion Fund Ep. 2

One Of These Things Is JUST Like The Other

    
Dion Lee Resort 2013                Alexander Wang Spring 2013 

As much as I love Alexander Wang and his creativity, drive and youthfulness, I cannot turn the other cheek at this blatant mimic of Dion Lee's 2013 Resort. The suspender dress which Wang used as inspiration...clears throat....was used heavily throughout his Spring 2013 RTW. Sure it happens from time to time, but  as a designer himself, I'm sure Alex knows the crushing and all too real world of design infringement. Hopefully this was just a fleeting bout of using too much of someone else's inspiration and will hopefully return to his self orchestrated designs in time for his follow up collection.

Discount Universe Artisanal

And just like that, all of my jackets suddenly seem too light. Because lets face it, who wouldn't want to wear a Texas tuxedo with 20 lbs of studs on studs on denim, all for the low-low price of $3000. Price and weight aside, I am in love with this. Its not my style but I really appreciate its edginess, plus I know this took more time than my attention span has stored. Make sure to take a peak at their leather studded jacket below. Makes me feel a bit ashamed to have once thought that Phillip Lim's version was so covetable - keyword was.

Discount Universe

CFDA - Fashion Fund Episode 1

Hopeful......

Deborah Secco for GQ

Stunning video...I couldn't help but post.

Burberry Spring 2012 Video - Behind the Scenes

fashiongonerogue

Kate Moss & Daughter Lila Grace - Vogue US September

vogue

Although there is a full editorial shot by Mario Testino for Kate Moss' wedding, I found this image to be so striking. The beauty and simplicity of this shot is so endearing. To see the rest of the shoot check out Vogue's September issue or click here.